Bolt Hangers:

Q:  "I'm interested in doing some anchor replacements at my local climbing area.  Can you guys give me some suggestions?"

A:  Good to hear you're keeping up-to-date on the anchor replacement. Stainless is the only way to go (vs. carbon steel anyway)!  I just had a look in the Rawl Fastening Systems Design Manual (2nd edition).  Under Mechanical Anchors, I looked up the Power Bolt (I think this is what you're referring to as the 5 piece).  In stainless 1/2" dia., I see lengths of - 2 1/2", 3", 5" (embedded depths)  all of which torque to 35 ft./lbs.  In tension, they are rated to -  5,935, 7325, 8,060 (lbf.) in shear - 9,455, 10,150, 12,930 (lbf.).  These numbers are for 2000 psi concrete - they get better in higher strength concretes/rock types.  The numbers also indicate ultimate loads (failure of part). The extra length does give significant strength advantages!  Rawl also makes the Power Stud - which is similar to the Fixe (threaded shaft w/nut head) in 1/2" stainless steel - lengths are 2 3/4", 3 3/4", 4 1/2", 5 1/2".  I generally buy whatever I can get a screaming deal on!  It's worth calling around to a bunch of fastener suppliers - oftentimes, they will over-buy and you can get really good deals.  I found a load of 3/8" s.s. hilti bolts a few years ago and got them for a little over $1.00 /ea.  If you know any contractors, they may personally know the Rawl sales rep in your area - can get deals that way as well.  I generally don't tell them I'm using the anchors for rock climbing - it makes them nervous!  Try phoning 914-235-6300 and see if you can get a catalog - (number 0017 - 2nd edt - <may be a new edt. out now.>)  Lots of good info.  Hilti has a similar line of products - Kwik Bolt etc. - Customer service # 1-800-879-8000 or www.us.hilti.com - good luck with the project.

Harnesses:

Q:  I am looking for a women's harness and I saw your newest model at my local shop.  I tried it on and it fit well, but I was concerned that there didn't seem to be a quick rear drop system for  the leg loops.  How am I supposed to pee without taking the whole thing off?

A:  Thanks for taking the time to write with your harness question. I assume you are asking about the Safe Tech Women's Deluxe, so my answer will be specific to that model. You are basically correct; the leg loops do not drop easily. We made this compromise in order to make the leg loop strap strong enough to hold you in the event that it somehow gets clipped into and then loaded. I assume you read the packaging that accompanied the harness, so you are familiar with the philosophy behind the Safe Tech harnesses. It may seem like we're going too far with the leg loop strap, but I heard a story recently that convinced me otherwise. 

A party of 3 very experienced climbers was on El Cap trying to run 2 pitches together to save time. Unfortunately, the rope ran out before the leader could reach a belay. The only solution was for the second to dismantle the lower belay and simul-climb. Normally this wouldn't be that big a deal. Unfortunately, the third climber was supposed to climb on the second rope that was being trailed by the leader. Ordinarily, this rope would be in the leader's rear haul loop, but in her haste, the leader had mistakenly missed the haul loop and clipped into her leg loop strap. If the third had fallen, it would have been certain death. Luckily no one fell and a tragedy was narrowly averted. However, with a rear leg loop strap capable of holding 1500lbf, even if the third had fallen, he would have had a chance. No guarantee, but better than nothing. 

That is what the Safe Tech harnesses are all about - giving you a second chance when a mistake happens. You may think that you would never make a mistake like the one I just described, but that is exactly how most accidents go. Someone makes a mistake that is virtually inconceivable.  Anyway, that's the Safe Tech sales pitch. To get back to your question: I am hardly an expert on these matters, but all of the female climbing partners I've had have kept their leg loops on when  answering nature's call. They wriggle their trousers down, squat, and then use the stretch in the leg loop strap to get the whole business down low enough to be out of the line of fire. It seems  faster and more convenient than leg loop disassembly. I apologize if my description was vulgar, but it was the best I could do. Anyway, this is the feedback we have received from women climbers when designing the new harnesses and it certainly played into our decision to sacrifice the drop seat for the additional security. 

I hope that helps you make your harness decision. Thanks for checking our harness out and taking the time to ask the question before you purchased. 

Response:  Thanks for the return e-mail. FYI-- I went back to the shop (Neptune in Boulder) and retried on the harness. The stretch in the leg straps let me get the leg loops out of the way when I experimented with dropping my pants. So besides buying the harness, I informed the sales people of this feature. Thanks for the Beta. Carol