EMG Muscle Patterns -  (Jason Kruk)

● Finger Flexor Muscle Activity (red) 

● Finger Extensor Muscle Activity (green)

sEMG (surface electromyography) allows a wonderful opportunity to view the cooperative nature of the hand muscles during climbing. Notice in Figures 1a and 1b how both sets of muscle groups (finger flexors and extensors) are almost always very active during climbing.

In Figure 2, red peaks are indicative of the climber grasping a new hold (NH) or simply re-adjusting or anchoring within in a hold position.  Notice how the finger extensor muscles (NH) support the finger flexors to begin the new hold.

Notice also how active the finger extensor muscles are throughout the climb. This is because finger extensor muscles (G) always support and stabilize the action of gripping (G) (or finger flexion), especially when (as we have observed) the grip hand is more spread.

Conclusions

The sEMG muscle patterns clearly illustrate the fundamental presence of both finger extensor muscle and finger flexor muscle activity during climbing. In identifying and proving this fact, the need to maintain strong healthy balanced finger flexor and finger extensor muscles becomes very clear.

The Metolius Gripsaver Plus offers a one-step portable solution to all of the training needs of the serious climber, ensuring balanced finger exercise through full natural 3-dimensional planes of motion. The result is strength, balance, speed and maximum blood flow / lymphatic drainage to the hand, wrist, forearm and elbow.

Further study and experimentation is necessary in order to more completely analyze sEMG finger muscle patterns in climbing. Further opportunities exist in using these patterns in relation to 1) teaching, 2) training and 3) injury prevention in climbing.

Metolius Climbing continues to lead the field in hand muscle education for all climbers.