New Metolius Offset TCU’s are designed specifically for hard to protect
flared micro-fissures & pin scars. They use two smaller cam lobes and one
larger lobe to accomplish this. Working with Ivo Ninov and partners over
the past two years has convinced us of their validity. Ivo has raved
about their performance on free & aid walls in Yosemite and Zion and is
quoted as saying “you guys must do these units…they are sooooo bomber”!
The narrow head width fits nearly anywhere and the U-shaped body
absolutely doesn’t hinder placement. In fact it gives a very stable
framework in which to hold the cam lobes. Unlike other brands, the
Metolius TCU’s can withstand multiple walls worth of abuse.
Offset Cams are specialized pieces designed to fit in
flaring pin scars, primarily for aid climbing. Cams placed in flaring
cracks are far more susceptible to pulling out than placements in
parallel-sided cracks. Climbers using Offset Cams should be very
experienced in the art of cam placement and thoroughly understand the
limitations of cams placed in flaring cracks.