Metolius Power Cams and TCUs win the
Rock & Ice "Editors' Choice - Best Overall" Award.

Reprinted courtesy of Rock & Ice Magazine, Issue#129

 
Metolius' sturdy U-shaped frame on the Power Cams and TCUs (four-cam and three-cam units with similar designs) helps protect trigger wires and keeps them from tangling with the rest of your rack.  The trigger action is smooth and precise, and you can grip the knurled bar in a variety of ways -- of the cams in the review, these were the easiest to slam in from awkward stances.  Once placed, the Power Cams' four-cam design is comfortingly stable, with very firm springs holding the cams securely in position.  Aid climbers appreciate being able to clip directly into the bottom of the U-stem when high-stepping.  The nylon slings are beefy and brightly colored, making it easy to discern cam sizes.

Power Cams and TCUs are not as adaptable to shallow horizontal cracks or angled and diagonal placements as some ultra-flexible single-stem designs, but for most placements they're reliable performers, even in the tiniest sizes.  Though a heavy load can bend the outer cables into awkward shapes, a bit of massaging usually restores them to working order.

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Constructed with the same design as Power Cams, TCUs boast many of the same advantages as the four-cam units but have a slightly narrower cam head.  The trade-off is that TCUs pivot around more than their four-cam brethren.  Like the micro-sized Power Cams, the cams heads are made from durable 7075-grade aluminum. 
 

Power Cam Results:

Stability:  4.5
Trigger design:  4.5
Tricky placements:  4.5
Final Score: 


TCU Results:

Stability:  4
Trigger design:  4.5
Tricky placements:  4.5
Final Score: 

     

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